Yves Saint Laurent's Summer 2018 collection, a breathtaking spectacle orchestrated by creative director Anthony Vaccarello, remains a significant moment in the brand's history. Presented on September 26th in the iconic setting of the Trocadero in Paris, the show was a masterful blend of high fashion, cinematic flair, and a distinct summery energy, resonating far beyond the runway and influencing trends for years to come. This article delves into the various facets of this memorable collection, exploring its creative direction, impactful presentation, the accompanying makeup line, and its lasting legacy within the fashion world.
A Vaccarello Vision: Modernity Meets Heritage
Anthony Vaccarello's tenure at Yves Saint Laurent has been marked by a consistent reimagining of the brand's heritage, injecting a modern, often provocative edge into its classic silhouettes. The Summer 2018 collection was no exception. While paying homage to the house's legacy of powerful femininity and sharp tailoring, Vaccarello infused the collection with a distinct summery sensuality. The collection showcased a masterful blend of seemingly contradictory elements: the structured and the fluid, the bold and the understated, the classic and the contemporary.
The palette was predominantly dark, a stark contrast to the bright, sunny imagery often associated with summer collections. Think deep blacks, rich navies, and sultry reds, punctuated by flashes of vibrant color – a deliberate juxtaposition that reflected the collection's overall mood. This dark palette wasn't gloomy, however; it lent a sophisticated edge, highlighting the luxurious fabrics and impeccable tailoring. The use of leather, a Vaccarello staple, was particularly striking, appearing in everything from fitted jackets and trousers to flowing skirts and dresses. The leather pieces weren't merely tough; they were elegant, showcasing the designer's ability to manipulate materials to create both structure and fluidity.
Silhouettes were key to the collection's success. Vaccarello masterfully played with proportions, contrasting oversized blazers with body-hugging dresses, creating a dynamic interplay of volume and form. The iconic Saint Laurent tuxedo suit was reinterpreted for the summer, appearing in lighter fabrics and subtly relaxed fits, maintaining its power while feeling effortlessly chic. The collection also featured a strong emphasis on eveningwear, with shimmering gowns and jumpsuits that captured the glamorous essence of the brand. These pieces were not just beautiful; they conveyed a sense of confidence and self-assuredness, a hallmark of the Saint Laurent woman.
The Trocadero Spectacle: A Cinematic Experience
The setting of the show, the Trocadero, played a crucial role in shaping the overall experience. The iconic Parisian location, with its stunning views of the Eiffel Tower, provided a breathtaking backdrop for the collection. This choice wasn't merely aesthetic; it underscored the collection's inherent Parisian chic, a quality deeply embedded in the Yves Saint Laurent DNA.
The show's direction, overseen by Bureau Future, further enhanced its cinematic quality. The choreography, lighting, and overall atmosphere created a powerful and immersive experience for both the live audience and those watching the livestream. The music, composed by Sebastian, added another layer of sophistication, perfectly complementing the collection's mood and enhancing the overall emotional impact. The show wasn't just a presentation of clothes; it was a carefully curated spectacle, a complete artistic expression that resonated deeply with viewers.
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